The exclusively chartered Ventus Australis is a true expedition ship – compact, with a shallow draft for navigating the tidal fjords and sounds, and equipped with powerful Zodiacs for shore excursions. The guides who escort every foray ashore are superb, full of anecdotes about life on the edge and have intimate knowledge of the ecology. This vegan voyage is all about wildlife, scenery and the extraordinary story of everyday survival in one of the wildest spots on Earth. Documentaries are shown after dinner and evenings center around chatting in the Darwin Lounge or attending Vegan Travel talks and events. There are no TVs in the cabins and no Wi-Fi or cellphone signal, which is a bonus; you really find yourself immersed in your surroundings without the distractions of the outside world.

This is coastal cruising at its purest, the ship’s small size allowing it to get close to the extraordinary scenery of Patagonia; towering cliffs, ribbon-like waterfalls, creaking glaciers and curious evergreen beech forests known locally as “lenga,” draped with lichen. The human side of the region’s history – of indigenous tribes, explorers, settlers, convicts and, today, conservationists – is fascinating. You will see birds, skuas, condors and cormorants, and probably sea lions, and possibly whales and dolphins. But, more than anything, there’s a sensation of being alone in the wilderness – only surrounded by like-minded and compassionate people from around the world. No other company offers this itinerary.